The route from Biarritz to San Sebastian is a ‘must do’ if you are travelling along the West Coast of France. It winds through beautiful towns caked in surf culture and home to quirky caravan cafes; perfect to stop off on long journeys. There are plenty of beaches along the route for surfing or simply just sunbathing. Whether you are on a family holiday or on a once in a lifetime trip with a friend there is plenty for all to see and do.
Approaching the border of France we came across a bustling Medieval food festival in a town named Irun. We walked around the markets looking at the homemade jewellery stalls and chatting to friendly stall men as they sold us oysters and champagne. We came across a big circular food stall with huge cauldrons; boiling octopus and legs of ham and on the other side ribs and sausages were sizzling over a coal fire. There were stacks of Padron peppers, calamari and other traditional Spanish tapas being passed around with bottles of wine and beer to a cheery family crowd. We sat down and joined in the feast. It took a while to adjust to the new language, accidentally thanking people in French but they didn’t seem to mind. After our lunch we set off again towards San Sebastian along the winding roads; dappled light seeping through the trees that engulfed the sky.
We arrived in San Sebastian late in the evening so we drove through the city in search for somewhere to camp for the night. You don’t have to go far to be surrounded by mountains and quaint Spanish farmland in the beautiful Basque countryside. High above the cliffs is a little single track road that several other roads branch off down to private houses.
In search for somewhere to pull off and camp we took a wrong turn and pulled up into a tiny courtyard where at least twenty little dogs surrounded the car. We thought the owners would be angry hearing me burn out my clutch trying to turn around amongst the yapping dogs and steep banks but to our surprise she came out smiling and helped us reverse.
Eventually we pulled up next to a park in the middle of nowhere where large groups of families and friends congregated around tables stacked with food. We found a bench amongst the crowd and made dinner whilst watching wild horses frolic in the nearby fields. As the sun set over the cliffs the landscape turned from a patchwork of greens to a palette of pinks and oranges. As morning came we woke to the sound of trotting hooves. I pulled open the door to see a family of horses all lined up at the fence waiting to be fed. We gave them our left over carrots and had breakfast overlooking the valley where a river meandered it’s way through the trees.
Afterwards, we cycled down the hill into San Sebastian where we sun bathed on the beach, watched people dancing on the promenade to jazz music and ate lunch in a bustling side street restaurant.
If you are searching for a great place to eat in San Sebastian then you have to venture over to the Old Town on the East of the Promenade. You can join in on Pintxos; A traditional activity in the Basque Country which consists of barhopping and eating a selection of small plates displayed on bar counters. You can eat at the bars or take the food out to the street where crowds of people laugh and share stories with a txikito (a small glass of wine) before heading home for a proper meal. In my opinion, the best of these bars is La Mejillonera, which is just off the harbour on the street Calle del Puerto.
The bar has similarities to a take away in the fact you shout out your order and the chefs dish out plates upon plates of calamari, patatas bravas and moules on the counter. Everybody stands around the tiny room perching on stools eating their mussels and throwing the shells on the floor. The dishes are very cheap so you can keep ordering more until you are full. At the end of a busy service the chefs run around with brooms sweeping up the shells ready for dinner service.
With a full stomach and salty wet clothes we got on our bikes and headed back towards the van. The climb back was steep and long and the heat from the sun made it nearly unbearable.As soon as we got back we stripped into our bikinis and poured bottles of water over ourselves to cool down.
The road trip from Biarritz to San Sebastian can be done as a day trip or add it to a surf trip around Europe. Either way bouncing between both cities you are able to experience French and Spanish culture at its best.
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